Our 750 Mile North Scotland Coast Tour.
The wind it wasn't howlin'
And the sun was outrageous.
We set off on Monday on the Yamaha XJR1300 and the Triumph Street Triple 675 heading for our Scottish North Coast Tour. First stop in Inverness for fuel and refreshments with not too much traffic on the A9. First nights stop at Brora campsite.
A lovely walk along the beach into town for our tea and a few beers in the Sutherland Inn.
The scenic evening walk back was a taste of things to come.
And the sun was outrageous.
We set off on Monday on the Yamaha XJR1300 and the Triumph Street Triple 675 heading for our Scottish North Coast Tour. First stop in Inverness for fuel and refreshments with not too much traffic on the A9. First nights stop at Brora campsite.
A lovely walk along the beach into town for our tea and a few beers in the Sutherland Inn.
The scenic evening walk back was a taste of things to come.
Brora Campsite
Tuesday morning we headed up the Berriedales with a stop at Morag's Café in Wick for tea & rolls. Next stop was Duncansby Head in brilliant sunshine, we were told that there were Puffins nesting over by the Duncansby Stacks, off we went trekking in full bike gear, it was well worth it when we got there.
Duncansby Head
View over to the Orkney Islands
Duncansby Stacks
We headed for our first visit to John O Groats, years ago I was told to avoid the place, " nothing to see and not worth the extra miles" this was thankfully not the case, to stand in the sunshine drinking tea and chatting to fellow motorcyclists from all parts of the UK , witnessing several different groups of runners and cyclists finishing their own individual journeys to great cheers from their parties, this was a great day.
John O Groats
Dounreay Nuclear Power Station
We continued along the A836 with a photo stop in Tongue, still being amazed by the scenery and the sunshine.
Tongue
Lesley taking the opportunity to flee past me on the Kyle Of Tongue Causeway.
Farr Beach at Bettyhill was a must see, I had been on about it for ages, we must have looked like aliens, civilians in swimming gear and us in black bike wear in the beating sun.
Tuesday saw us stopping at Durness campsite for the night, it had been recommended to us and it did not let us down, friendly staff and great facilities. The campers kitchen was a godsend the next morning, shelter for cooking our breakfast and wrestling into our wet weather gear.
Note to Lesley, do not feed the seagulls next to our tent, told them to flock off, they didn't.
We were happy to help a newly arrived French motorcyclist with his tent as the wind had picked up before our depart.
Sango Sands Campsite, Durness
A walk down and back up the 3 Thousand steps in our bike gear to see the Smoo Cave didn't do anything for my hangover.
Lesley decided to be brave and explore the cave, being a non swimmer and not wanting to tip everyone else out the wee boat, I declined.
Next stop for food was The Old School Restaurant & Rooms, Inshegra, Kinlochbervie, a great wee find off the beaten track.
Back on the road, we headed for our Wednesday night stop in Scourie on the A894, once again it was on a recommendation from others. The Scourie campsite bar / restaurant was a braw place to chill out but they don't do evening meals so we had to head along the road to the Scourie Hotel, it was obvious we were in the posh side as soon as we went in the door, around the back to the proper restaurant, beers ordered along with our tea, more than an hour later, plenty more beer, our tea appeared, nothing off the bill so no tip. Back along the road to the campsite bar for more beer and a good blether with the locals and the barman. This was interrupted by some eejit from the Borders riding around the campsite on his bike, shorts, T-shirt, no helmet, how to make friends and influence people, NOT.
Scourie Campsite
Thursday we were back on our travels, I was really looking forward to riding over the Kylesku Bridge after seeing the North Coast 500 photos, it didn't quite live up to the reality but we were on our bikes so it was a good day.
Kylesku Bridge
We turned onto the B869 through Nedd, Drumbeg, Clashnessie and Stoer, a bit dreich but still stunning coastal scenery, they must be hardy folk to stay out here.
Thursdays digs were at the Caledonian Hotel in Ullapool. There was private parking at the rear of the hotel, next to a public footpath and beside a builders skip and scaffolding, I decided the safest option for our gear was to haul nearly all our gear off the bike, including the tent upstairs to our room, this great expedition resulted in a lot of swearing and a great thirst for beer. Ullapool has changed greatly in all the years I have visited and stayed, maybe not on the outside ( still stunningly beautiful ) but there is a distinct lack of indigenous staff in many of the eateries and bars, Ullapool is not alone in this, its not any fault of the staff, they all seemed friendly enough, it seems to be cheaper to employ Romanians to travel 3500 miles instead of locals.
We met 2 guys from Kenmore who were up on a fishing trip, a real good laugh from Graeme the Ranger and Dotty the Golfer.
Ullapool
On Friday morning we lugged the gear back downstairs onto the bike before our journey began again on the A832 towards Poolewe for a food stop and a wander around the gardens.
Walking from the restaurant across the car park, I heard a crashing sound of a bike landing on its side, a German guy on his touring BMW was lying underneath it, sprinting towards him and making sure he was removed back to his feet, we got it back on 2 wheels and made sure he was okay, his pride and a fancy camera dented were the only casualties. He thanked us and we made our way to the gardens again. Beautiful but full bike gear not the best attire for the occasion.
Inverewe Gardens, Poolewe
We stopped for a photo shoot again overlooking Gairloch, a place I had been before when I worked on the at Rua Reidh Lighthouse further out the coast.
Gairloch
We were making good time on our way to stay in Applecross and the sun was making a welcome return.
Bealach Na Ba
Applecross campsite
Vincent Owners Club
We met our Belgian friend Paul Coene while we were having a beer in the sun outside the Applecross Inn, he was touring Scotland with Ann in their car and caravan, he has a stunning Egli Vincent back at home so I bet he was in heaven speaking to the Vincent Owners Club up on holiday.
A great night spent blethering and drinking beer was had as always in the Inn.
The view from our table in the Applecross Inn
Lazy sunny Saturday morning
Saturday morning we headed home in the brilliant sunshine, heading inland but still amazing scenery.
View from the top of the Bealach
A wee stop for food at that castle again.
Eillean Donan Castle
Last petrol stop at Dalwhinnie, minutes before he closed at 5pm.
We would have had lots of time to spare had Lesley's internal satnav been functionating, I managed to pass a line of Germans on their bikes before Spean Bridge, stopping just as you turn left towards Dalwhinnie, much pacing up and down the street, phoning her mobile to no avail, fully half an hour later the Street Triple appears, thankfully no accident or incident, Fort William must have been more appealing than heading home at the end of our 750 mile journey around the North Coast of Scotland.
What a beautiful country we live in, get out and explore it, you might even enjoy yourself.
